Cosmeceutical Focus

By Jess Halliday in Geneva
10/05/2007 - The new health claims regulations for foods could prompt more companies to tout the beauty benefits of their products, says analyst, since cosmetics are not generally subject to the same stringent rules as foods and supplements.

The term cosmeceuticals is a cross between cosme-tic and pharma-ceutical. It is used to refer to topical as well as oral products, in the latter instance products are also known as beauty foods. Other terms include dermaceuticals, beauty supplements, and skinceuticals.

This year is the first time that sessions on cosmeceuticals have been included in the programme at the Vitafoods conference, organised by Leatherhead International, which session chair Dr Joerg Gruenwald of Analyse and Realise said is an important statement that underscores the importance of the product category.

He noted, while walking the trade show floor, that "every second stand" has some product that mentions weight loss or beauty.

Although there have been products marketed on a beauty platform for many years (Merz Spezialdragees has been available since 1964, for instance, and Imedeen products for around 15 years), Gruenwald has noticed a clear switch to a beauty focus in recent years. He said the explanation could well be that it is easier to make claims for cosmetics than it is for foods.

Indeed, some topical products make very strong efficacy claims in their marketing materials - only for the small print to reveal that studies were not controlled and involved a very small sample of women.

However there is also considerable investment being made in foods to boost appearance by major players in the food industry, such as Nestle with its Inneov product, in collaboration with L'Oreal, and Dannone's several yoghurt products marketed on a slimming and/or beauty basis.

And Dr Gruenwald believes that this is just the start.

The world cosmeceuticals market is estimated at US$60bn, with a growth rate of 8 to 12 per cent.

A spur to the market could well be the new health claims regulations in Europe; faced with tighter controls, companies could still seek to leverage consumer appeal by communicating benefits that are not strictly health related.

Health and beauty are closely tied, since obesity has health implications but is also a matter of appearance. Moreover, skin and outward appearance can also be an indication of inner health and wellness.

But Gruenwald said: "A beauty claim should not be about health, if it does not involve any health issue. We want to keep some freedom of advertising."

But again, when it comes back to science, there is a big gulf between credible and incredible products.

He drew attention to an anti-wrinkle jam called Norelift from Laboratoires Noreva, for which research data could not be found. In the case of functional marshmallows by Eiwa Confectionery in Japan, it is questionable whether oral intake of collagen would have any effect on skin, and again, there is no evidence to support the claim.

In terms of the geographical market for cosmeceuticals, Gruenwald said that Japan is by far the biggest market, values at $6 to $8bn.

The US is estimated at around $5 to $6bn, and the EU $3 to $5bn

But when it comes to target users, he highlighted interesting differences between the genders.

For women, the prime target is those who are already ageing - that is, 50-years plus.

But in men it is the 25 to 34 age group that is showing the most interest in products for outward appearance - "single men on the run to find the right date".

Source Nutaingredients.com