As the aeroplane glided over Venice, the scores of canals below revealed the water city in all its glory as the ancient domed-topped buildings came into view.

The cream of Hollywood was in town recently for the annual Venice Film Festival making the already congested tourist hub even more so, which is why it is refreshing to know that when the crowds get too much, it is easy to escape to the foot of the Euganean Hills – just a 45km drive north of the city. Indeed many people who stay in the spa towns of Abano Terme and Montegrotto just take a day trip to Venice and spend the rest of their holiday relaxing in the treatment rooms and thermal water swimming pools at their chosen hotel.

I checked into the family-run Abano Grand Hotel for a week of exquisite pampering. Everything about this luxury hotel is geared towards relaxation and wellness. The Persian rug-lined lobby and hallways lead to suites decked out in brocade furniture. The fruit platters are replenished daily, while the traditional food served at mealtimes makes long lazy days pass by in a flash.

There are more than 150 hotels in the two towns, meaning the 19,000 resident population relies on visitors to keep business ticking over. It is the most important spa resort in Europe and famous for its thermal water that trickles down the hills and fangotherapy, which is not as scary as it sounds.

Fangotherapy – basically mud treatments – is the reason people flock to the region's only five-star deluxe hotel Abano Grand every year. It collects mud from the depths of lakes in the nearby mountains and cultivates it with homegrown algae for six months at temperatures up to 87C. Its reputed benefits are such that the Italian Government will pay for 12 treatments annually to relieve people's aching backs and necks.

For this reason most hotels employ in-house doctors for guests to determine how hot the mud needs to be and where it can be put. Those with varicose veins, for example, cannot have it on their legs as it causes inflammation, while for others it is cooled from 45C to 35C for beauty reasons. The idea of lying on 20kg of mud for 15 minutes is not everyone's idea of a fun holiday, especially as it takes a few minutes to get used to the smell, but once cocooned it is surprisingly relaxing, especially when followed by a thermal water bath.

There are a host of other "normal" treatments also on offer – including facials and the delectable chocolate body wrap – but as the mud wrap is the signature treatment it would be rude not to give it a go. The swimming pools, heated to 33C and 36C for their healing benefits are also a must and have aqua aerobics and Jacuzzi-style jets to walk through to improve circulation.

But when it is time to get the energy flowing again, there is a wealth of things to do in the local Veneto region. Venice is less than an hour away, while Verona can also be done in a day. Visitors can head to Juliet's balcony and rub her statue for good luck. Or go closer to home and visit the historic city of Padova, which houses the second oldest university in the world. Buildings from the city's founding year in 1222 are still standing and as one of the biggest and most important medical schools in Italy, it is also often the epicentre of many student revolts.

The main square in Padova is a scene of bustling activity every day as the open market sets up shop. Here, locals as well as tourists scour the stalls for the best deals on their weekly shopping before stopping off for coffee on the way home.

One place not to be missed is the Pedrocchi coffee shop, which has been an institution in the city since it opened in 1831.

Known locally as the café with no door due to it being open 24/7 until the First World War, it is still going strong – although it does now have a door and closes in the evening. Pedrocchi was founded by an Italian man when the Veneto region still belonged to Austria and because he did not want to leave his Italian roots behind, he split the café into three rooms – the green, red and white rooms – but rearranged the order from that of the Italian flag to fool the Austrians.

All the rooms still remain intact and the green one has kept its heritage as the area for the poor. In its early years people came here to read the paper and have a free glass of water. But for those wanting coffee, try the speciality Pedrocchi, which is an espresso topped with mint and chocolate.

Once the respite is over and your wallet is considerably lighter from a day's shopping, do not leave Padova without a visit to the Basilica of St Anthony.

Just a 10 minute walk from the main shopping area, step through the entrance onto the grounds and you are stepping out of Italy and into the Vatican. The tomb of St Anthony is on public display but has been temporarily moved to a different alcove due to restoration works. The inside of the chapel is covered in frescos both old and new, while those with a stronger disposition can even view the jawbone, tongue and vocal chords of St Anthony.

On the drive back to Abano it is impossible not to notice the hundreds of villas – stately homes is a more appropriate description – dotted along the country roads. Most are now privately owned, but there are a few open to the public, some of which are free to enter, including the 114-room Villa Pisani, which opens up to reveal vast gardens with its own statue-lined waterway and regal interiors.

Life in Abano runs at a very gentle pace. There are no stressed businessmen running from one meeting to another and everyone seems calm.

People meander through the boutiques and stop for refreshments, while watching the world go by.

And with the combination of spas, rolling hill scenery and traditional Italian food it is impossible not to come back completely relaxed – if not a couple of kilos heavier after a week of delectable pasta, cheese and bread.

Essential information

Getting there: Emirates runs daily flights to Marco Polo International Airport, Venice, which take about six hours with fares starting from Dh4,110. Visit www.emirates.com.

Stay at: Twin rooms at the Abano Grand start at €145 (Dh740) a night. Visit www.gbhotels.it. A seven-night package for two, including flights, transfers, bed and breakfast starts from Dh11,374 per person.

Must try: The traditional fangotherapy treatment, which costs €180 (Dh900) at the Abano Grand including thermal bath and consultation with the doctor.